PR9 MTR - Poços Verdes Trail to Sete Lagoas
An overview of the hike through Portugal's PTR9 MTR Poços Verdes Trail to Sete Lagoas.
Overview
The PTR9 MTR, or Poços Verdes trail is located within Peneda-Gerês National Park. I would classify it as a moderately hard hike, especially when it's overgrown. However, it's well worth the hike, as it goes by Sete Lagoas – a series of crystal clear pools that are perfect for cooling off.
Reception
As a traveller, I was roaming on Verizon's international plan. It had me on Vodafone and signal was not great. When I did have signal, it was 2G and not enough to load data.
My parter had great signal of 5G.
Either way, I would recommend downloading the trail map before arriving. If nothing else, download the offline version of Google or Apple Maps.
Parking and Supplies
The nice thing about this trail is that it starts and ends at the same location – an outdoor bar. This is a great place to stock up on snacks or water before making the trek. And when you're done, it's a great place to grab a beer with your trail buddies.
They're also super ample parking. I would estimate one-hundred vehicles could fit here, but hopefully you don't see the trail that packed.
In addition to the post-trail beers, the bar sells protein bars, their own homemade cookies, and bottles of water. I'd recommend grabbing all three for some trail snacks!
Starting Off
The trail starts and ends through the town of Xertelo. It works east and west. We started off going west, the more difficult route, and the way that I would recommend starting.

The path guides you to an impressively built lookout, which technically isn't part of the trail but is only a few short meters off, so I'd definitely recommend taking a look.


After taking a peek, the trail makes a couple turns down the mountain. It's quite steep, but that also gives you an unobstructed view of the valley. There are several spots of loose gravel, the point where I would recommend boots or trail running shoes with excellent grip; trainers and runners, really didn't cut it for us.

Also watch out! There are wild horses in the park and they leave plenty of traces of their presence. 💩
Along the way, you'll know you're on the trail because you'll see red and orange markers.
Once you've reached the lowest point of the hike, you'll see a signpost guiding you northeast or back the way that you came. This starts your gradual (and then all of the sudden and very steep) ascent up the mountain.
The Ascent
How naïve we were. The start of the ascent was littered with cut branches, looking as though it was recently maintained. And it was. But it wasn't finished yet.
During our climb, we heard the sound of a few small motors. It was four members of the parks department out weed-wacking the thick brush! And boy was it thick.
After we passed them, the trail was certainly single-file and lined with these thick thorny plants. The thorns weren't bad enough to necessarily cut skin on first contact, but certainly uncomfortable. I'd recommend longer pants or certainly something higher than ankle socks.


The ascent take you to a river crossing. There are several large rocks that should make crossing very easy. About 30m north of the crossing, along the river, there's a crystal clear pool that, depending on river conditions, should be enjoyable to lounge in.
We passed just because it was a little chilly in October.

Continuing along the trail, you'll realize that you're only just now starting the quad-burner part of the hike. Now who's the mountain goat?
Parts of the tail become sloped rock faces that I would caution against traversing in rain or with wet shoes.
But after you reach the highest point, you're super close to Sete Lagoas.
Sete Lagoas
Here's what makes it all worth it. The gorgeous pools. Or literally, Seven Lagoons.

I haven't seen fresh water this clear in a long time. And on an October afternoon, the place had maybe four or five other couples present. So not crowded at all.
Though, at that time, I would estimate the water temperature to be close to 55F.
The lagoons are accessible by a sloped path and some staircases. Some of the more remote ones might require traversing smooth rock, but overall it's quite accessible.
The closest lagoon, where we went (okay we weren't that adventurous), was deep enough to jump into without touching the bottom. So I did a little jackknife and cannonball into the frigid waters. I didn't have a bathing suit with me so I just went in my skivvies and no one seemed to mind.
Definitely bring a towel in the colder months. I stayed in the water long enough for my fingertips to turn white and drying off quickly was helpful.
The Return Trek
After lounging by the pool for less time than we would have liked (we were short on water at this point), we started off back toward Xertelo.
This leg of the hike is much easier. The road, while not paved, is tamped down and quite wide by the lagoons. Closer to town, and for most of the hike, it can get single file, but there's no thorns or thick vegetation.
If you were looking for a moderately easy trail, this leg would be perfect to just down and back to Sete Lagoas. Don't go in flip flops, but you also don't need boots or grippy trail shoes.
And this brings you right back into town and on toward the bar. Grab a Super Bock and enjoy what you've accomplished.
Review and Summary
In hindsight, we should have skipped the west part of the hike. We were underprepared for the vegetation and didn't have enough water to make the ascent without rationing.
Sete Lagoas certainly made the ascent rewarding. We certainly deserved that dip in the water! The water also made this one of my favorite hikes. There's just something magical about finding (okay, I didn't find it, but you know...) a special place like that.
I would love to go back in the warmer months. Maybe in the morning before it gets too crowded.
Cheers!
